Purja was among a 10-member international team caught in the avalanche while attempting to summit the 8,051-metre (26,414-foot) mountain in Pakistan’s Karakoram range. Search teams backed by Pakistani military helicopters had spent two days combing the avalanche zone before Elite Exped announced that Purja and several members of the expedition had not survived.

“Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive,” Elite Exped said in a statement posted on Instagram.

The company confirmed that veteran Nepalese guides Pur Bahadur Gurung, popularly known as “Yukta”, and Nima Sherpa were also killed. “Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa,” the company said, requesting privacy for the families of those killed.

Pakistani authorities had earlier confirmed the deaths of Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy and American climber Mallory Geis after their bodies were recovered from the mountain. Rescue operations were continuing for the remaining missing climbers.

Four climbers confirmed dead, five still missing

Pakistani police official Tahir Khan said the body of Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy was flown to Islamabad, while the remains of American climber Mallory Geis and Nepalese guide Pur Bahadur Gurung remain in Skardu, the main city in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region. Rescue operations are continuing for the remaining six missing climbers.

According to the ACP, the expedition comprised five Nepalese climbers, Pakistani guide Sohail Sakhi, American climber Mallory Geis, Omani mountaineer Nadhira Al Harthy, Chinese climber Wang Zhong and another foreign climber whose identity has not been released publicly. The team was led by Nirmal Purja.

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Heavy snowfall raised avalanche fears

The tragedy came after experienced climbers had already begun abandoning Broad Peak because of deteriorating conditions.

According to National Geographic, veteran Hungarian climber David Klein and American climber Ian Overton decided to leave the mountain after heavy snowfall beginning around July 22 dramatically increased avalanche danger. Klein said fresh snow on steep Himalayan slopes requires several days of stable weather either to settle or naturally slide away before it becomes safe for summit attempts. By July 25, most expeditions had already left the mountain, although Purja’s Elite Exped team remained.

At around 9 am local time on Thursday, an avalanche swept through the mountain’s main west-facing gully, carrying all ten climbers hundreds of metres downhill and triggering a large-scale rescue operation.

GPS tracker briefly raised hopes

Purja’s Garmin tracking device continued transmitting for several hours after the avalanche, briefly raising hopes that he might have survived.

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According to National Geographic, the device showed the team climbing steadily from Camp 2 before suddenly dropping more than 2,000 feet within about 30 minutes shortly before 9 am. Elite Exped co-founder Mingma Gyabu Sherpa initially said Purja’s GPS location appeared to be moving, giving rescuers hope.

However, climbing experts later cautioned that GPS devices buried beneath snow or trapped in steep terrain can continue transmitting unreliable positions, making apparent movement difficult to interpret.

Who are the climbers?

Nirmal “Nims” Purja (Nepal/UK) — Confirmed dead

Forty-three-year-old Nirmal Purja was one of the world’s best-known mountaineers.

Nirmal Purja, one of the team member of the all-Nepalese mountaineering team that became the first to scale Mount K2 in winter, gestures as the team arrives at Tribhuwan International airport in Kathmandu, January 26, 2021. (AP File) Nirmal Purja, one of the team members of the all-Nepalese mountaineering team that became the first to scale Mount K2 in winter, gestures as the team arrives at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, January 26, 2021. (AP File)

According to the Associated Press, he was a former British Army Gurkha and Special Forces soldier who had gained international fame after climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in a record 189 days in 2019, a feat chronicled in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. Although the record was later broken, Purja remains among the sport’s biggest names.

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Days before the expedition, Purja had written on social media that Broad Peak would be followed by Cho Oyu as part of his attempt to become the first climber to complete all 14 eight-thousanders twice.

“I take zero mountains for granted. Not one,” he wrote, according to CNN.

Sohail Sakhi (Pakistan) — Missing

Pakistani guide Sohail Sakhi is regarded as one of the country’s leading high-altitude climbers.

According to ExplorersWeb and expedition operator Moving Mountains, Sakhi was a guide, geographer and high-altitude photographer who had climbed all five of Pakistan’s 8,000-metre peaks. Broad Peak was expected to be his final expedition above 8,000 metres.

He had also become an outspoken advocate for Pakistani climbing guides, arguing they deserved greater recognition and better pay as foreign expedition companies increasingly dominated commercial Himalayan climbing.

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The ACP says Sakhi’s Garmin tracker has been recovered from the avalanche debris, though he remains missing.

Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy (Oman) — Confirmed dead

Nadhira Al Harthy became the first Omani woman to summit Mount Everest in 2019.

According to Outside magazine, she later climbed K2, Nanga Parbat, Manaslu and Ama Dablam, becoming one of the Arab world’s most accomplished female mountaineers.

Her death has prompted tributes across Oman and the wider Gulf region.

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Mallory Geis (United States) — Confirmed dead

Thirty-nine-year-old Mallory Geis was a San Antonio-based wellness entrepreneur attempting her first 8,000-metre mountain in Pakistan.

According to AP and Moving Mountains, she had earlier this year shut down her Pilates studio to pursue mountaineering full-time, describing it as “a giant leap of faith into the unknown.” She had previously climbed several 6,000-metre peaks in Nepal, including one expedition guided by Sohail Sakhi.

Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta” (Nepal) — Confirmed dead

Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as “Yukta”, was a veteran Nepalese high-altitude guide with Elite Exped.

According to National Geographic, he worked on some of the world’s highest peaks and was part of the team that supported American skier Jim Morrison’s first ski descent of Everest’s Hornbein Couloir via the mountain’s north face last year.

Wang Zhong (China) — Missing

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Chinese climber Wang Zhong was close to completing one of mountaineering’s most prestigious milestones.

According to Everest Chronicle, Broad Peak was one of only three remaining 8,000-metre peaks he needed to summit all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres.

China’s Foreign Ministry said it was verifying the situation and stood ready to assist Pakistan if required.

Kili “Kilu” Pemba Sherpa (Nepal) — Missing

Kili Pemba Sherpa is among Nepal’s most accomplished climbing guides.

According to Everest Chronicle, he completed his own quest to summit all 14 eight-thousanders just weeks ago after climbing Nanga Parbat. He has summited Mount Everest 15 times, K2 twice, and participated in the historic first winter ascent of K2 in 2021 alongside Purja.

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He also helped recover the body of Indian climber Goutam Ghosh from high on Mount Everest in 2017, one of the highest-altitude body recovery missions ever attempted.

Nima Sherpa (Nepal) — Missing

Nima Sherpa was part of Purja’s Elite Exped guiding team.

According to climbing publications cited in the source material, relatively little is publicly known about his career, reflecting the limited attention often given to working Sherpa guides despite their extensive experience on Himalayan expeditions.

Nawang Thindu Sherpa (Nepal) — Missing

Nawang Thindu Sherpa was working as a guide for Seven Summit Treks during the expedition.

The expedition company confirmed him among those missing, though few details of his previous climbing record have been made public.

Gyalu Sherpa (Nepal) — Missing

Gyalu Sherpa, from Nepal’s Okhaldhunga district, was also guiding the expedition for Seven Summit Treks.

His outfitter confirmed he remains missing following the avalanche.

Rescue operation continues

Military helicopters, experienced Pakistani climbers and local rescue teams continue searching the avalanche zone despite increasingly slim hopes of finding survivors.

Broad Peak, located in Pakistan’s Karakoram range near K2, is notorious for rapidly changing weather, avalanches and difficult climbing conditions. Fatal accidents have frequently occurred on the mountain and elsewhere in northern Pakistan, where climbers face extreme altitude, unstable snow conditions and falling ice. Authorities have not yet determined whether anyone from the missing group survived the avalanche.

(With inputs from agencies)